MADE IN GERMANY ISN’T JUST A LABEL TO ME; IT’S A PROMISE

Stephan Obst, Founder and CEO of VDB Watches, discusses the story behind the German independent brand, its handcrafted military-inspired designs, unconventional materials and philosophy of creating watches with character and purpose.

Stephan Obst | Founder & CEO | VDB Watches

Stephan Obst

Founder & CEO

VDB Watches

What was the spark or defining moment that made you take the leap from secure employment to creating your own watch brand?

I never wanted to just function. I had a good job, but no fire left in me. I wanted to create something real with my hands, not a spreadsheet. The idea for VDB came from a mix of passion, curiosity, and a touch of madness. I wanted to build a watch with soul raw, uncompromising, full of character. So I started in the cellar, no business plan, just heart and grit.

How did you come up with that name, and what philosophy does it represent?

The name has two roots. One comes from the Belgian cyclist Van den Brücke a rough, fearless guy, always pushing limits, never mainstream. That spirit inspired me. The other is the idea of a watch that’s made to be worn every day a Vintage Daily Beater. A watch that ages with you, collects scars, tells your story. Not a safe queen — a life companion.

VDB watches are known for their bold, military-inspired designs. What draws you to these historic and utilitarian aesthetics?

I love things built with purpose tools, not toys. Old military and diver’s watches have this honest beauty. They were made to survive, not to show off. That honesty drives me. Our designs have substance, weight, and presence. They’re not polished to please they’re built to endure.

Could you walk us through the process from concept sketch to finished timepiece?

It all starts with an idea, a feeling. I sketch a lot by hand sometimes on a napkin. Then it’s about proportions, balance, materials. We machine every case here in Erfurt turning, milling, sanding, all by hand. No assembly line, no anonymous process. Each piece passes through our hands. Every watch gets its own character.

You work with exceptional materials such as bronze, Damascus steel, and tantalum. What challenges and advantages come with using these unique materials?

Every material has its own soul. Bronze is alive it changes, it breathes. That’s beautiful but unpredictable. Damascus steel is art but tough to handle. Tantalum is nearly indestructible, but it eats tools. I love that. You have to respect each material and when you do, it rewards you with something truly lasting.

VDB was among the first to use a special bronze alloy also found in Formula 1. How did this innovation come about?

I wanted bronze but not the usual kind. We searched for a special alloy, one used in Formula 1 for high-performance components. Stronger, more stable, more refined. It fit perfectly with our philosophy: uncompromising quality with a touch of rebellion.

The P1070 model famously survived simulated deep-sea conditions equivalent to the Mariana Trench. What did that achievement mean for you personally and for the brand?

That was a milestone. The P1070 proved that even a small brand from Erfurt can stand shoulder to shoulder with the giants of the industry. For me, it was pure goosebumps proof that craftsmanship, passion, and belief in yourself can beat any marketing budget. You just have to fight, never give up, and keep believing.

VDB has been featured in international media like Playboy and Focus. How did that early exposure influence your growth and visibility?

It definitely helped spread the word. But more important was that people understood we don’t build fashion watches. We build machines for the wrist. The articles opened doors, but the real fans came because they felt the soul behind the work.

You emphasize ecological materials and digital operations how do you balance craftsmanship with environmental responsibility?

For us, sustainability isn’t a marketing slogan. When you produce locally, fairly, and create watches that last for generations that is sustainability. We waste nothing. We go digital where it makes sense, but the heart stays analog: pure craftsmanship.

Do you believe luxury watchmaking and sustainability can truly coexist in today’s fast-changing market?

Yes if you’re honest. Real luxury isn’t about glitter or hype; it’s about durability and meaning. A watch that lasts decades is the opposite of consumerism. That’s what I call true luxury.

In a world dominated by mass production, why is “true handmade” craftsmanship still so essential to you?

Because it has soul. Every VDB carries the fingerprints of the people who made it. Perfection doesn’t interest me character does. Machines can measure, but they can’t feel.

What role does German engineering and craftsmanship play in shaping your brand identity?

A big one. We come from a region that breathes mechanical tradition precision, discipline, pride. “Made in Germany” isn’t a label to me; it’s a promise. It means responsibility.

In a market still heavily dominated by Swiss-made watches, how do you position VDB to stand apart?

We never wanted to be Switzerland. We’re VDB. Raw, direct, authentic. No alpine chalets, no marketing gloss just metal, machines, and passion. That’s our DNA.

Your watches have a strong cult following yet remain outside the mainstream. Is that sense of exclusivity a deliberate choice?

Absolutely. We’re not here to please everyone. You wear a VDB because you feel it, not because it’s trending. Our customers are individualists not logo collectors.

Who is the ideal VDB customer, and what do they value most about owning one of your watches?

Someone who values character over status. Someone who lives, rides, explores. A person who wears their watch hard, lets it age, lets it tell their story.

You’ve built a passionate community of collectors. How do you maintain that close connection with your customers and fans?

Directly. No call centers, no filters. We talk to our people, meet them, listen. Many customers have become friends. It’s a family, not a customer list.

Finally, what advice would you give to someone with a dream and a bit of madness, who wants to follow in your footsteps and build something extraordinary?

Just do it. Don’t talk act. It will be tough. You’ll fail, doubt, swear but if you truly believe in yourself and never give up, you can build anything. Passion beats money. Always.

VDB Watches is a German luxury watch brand known for its handcrafted, limited-edition timepieces that combine vintage military aesthetics with modern engineering. Founded by Stephan Obst in 2008, VDB specializes in bold and rugged watches inspired by diver and pilot designs. Every watch is carefully produced in small quantities, making each piece highly exclusive and collectible among watch enthusiasts worldwide. The brand is admired for its exceptional craftsmanship, durable materials, and unique character. VDB watches are more than just accessories; they represent individuality, precision, and timeless style.

Key to Remember
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VDB Watches: Raw Craftsmanship, Built to Endure

For Stephan Obst, VDB Watches is about character over convention. Inspired by military and diver’s watches built for purpose, the brand produces small quantities of handcrafted timepieces in Erfurt, combining German engineering with materials such as bronze, Damascus steel and tantalum.

The P1070’s simulated deep-sea testing became a significant milestone for the brand, reinforcing its focus on durability and engineering.

Obst also emphasizes sustainability through local production, long-lasting products and genuine craftsmanship, while maintaining a close relationship with collectors who value individuality over mainstream trends.

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